Your browser has disabled scripting - some functions of this album will not be available. Please check your browser configuration and security settings for this site

Mountains Of Travel Photos

Home | Manaslu Main | Manaslu References | Contact

Manaslu Photo Gallery - 2. Kathmandu To Syala

In October 2003 I Trekked Around Manaslu and the Annapurna Circuit from Dharapani to Manang

Manaslu 00 01 Trek Route From Google Earth Here is a view from Google Earth of my trek from Arughat Around Manaslu and then the Annapurna Circuit from Dharapani to Manang.

Manaslu 00 01 Trek Route From Google Earth

Manaslu 00 02 Nasa ISS008-E-6238 Close Up Nasa has some excellent images of Manaslu. Here is a view from the south west, with Manaslu (8163m) the pointy peak in the centre. The ridge comes down to a second pointy peak, Ngadi Chuli (7871m, Peak 29), and then turns to the right to Himal Chuli (7893m).

Manaslu 00 02 Nasa ISS008-E-6238 Close Up

Manaslu 00 03 Nasa ISS008-E-6343 Close Up Nasa has some excellent images of Manaslu. Here is a view from the south east, with Manaslu (8163m) on the far right with the large sunlit plateau. To the left is the pointy peak, Ngadi Chuli (7871m, Peak 29), and then further to the left Himal Chuli (7893m).

Manaslu 00 03 Nasa ISS008-E-6343 Close Up

Manaslu 00 04 Nasa ISS010-E-10633 Close Up Nasa has some excellent images of Manaslu. Here is a view from the south, with Manaslu (8163m) near the top just to the left of centre with the large sunlit plateau. Moving down the image is triangular peaked Ngadi Chuli (7871m, Peak 29), and then further down and to the right Himal Chuli (7893m).

Manaslu 00 04 Nasa ISS010-E-10633 Close Up

Manaslu 01 01 Landcruiser Stopped By A Tree On The Road We left Kathmandu in the dark at 5:15 and drove past people walking, bicycling and even jogging. At 6am we crested the lip of the valley and left Kathmandu behind. We continued west along the paved Prithvi Highway passing the ubiquitous Tata trucks and buses. We left the highway at 7:30 and drove 17km on a paved road to Dhading Besi, turned left and followed the unpaved road up through the early morning clouds. A small traffic jam occurred when a large tree fell across the road and had to be cut by one of the local young men.

Manaslu 01 01 Landcruiser Stopped By A Tree On The Road

Manaslu 01 02 Himal Chuli From Top Of Hill On The Way To Arughat We stopped at the top of the ridge on the road to Arughat, and had a beautiful view of Himal Chuli (7893m) in the middle, Himal Chuli West (7540m) on the left, and Baudha Peak (6672m) on the right. The first ascent of Himal Chuli was on May 24, 1960 by Japanese Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada. Himal Chili West Peak was first climbed on May 7, 1978 by Japanese Yoshio Ogata and Kazuhiro Sugeno. Baudha Peak was first climbed on May 2, 1970 by Japanese Yoshiyuki Kobayashi and Kiyoyasu Shibata.

Manaslu 01 02 Himal Chuli From Top Of Hill On The Way To Arughat

Manaslu 01 03 Waiting To Cross The Ankhu Khola The road winds its way down the north side of the ridge to the Ankhu Khola (580m), where we have to leave the Landcruiser and start hiking. But, not before getting across the river.

Manaslu 01 03 Waiting To Cross The Ankhu Khola

Manaslu 01 04 Crossing The Ankhu Khola In A Basket The bridge moves. We had to send our luggage and then ourselves across in this basket held together with ropes, and sliding on a pulley system. Who needs an amusement park when you can go hiking?

Manaslu 01 04 Crossing The Ankhu Khola In A Basket

Manaslu 01 05 Taking My First Trekking Steps After Crossing The Ankhu Khola After crossing the Ankhu Khola, the hiking finally began. We started at 12:00 in the blazing mid-day 31C sun.

Manaslu 01 05 Taking My First Trekking Steps After Crossing The Ankhu Khola

Manaslu 01 06 Buri Gandaki From Arughat After hiking for almost three hours, we arrived in Arughat (600m) at 14:45. I crossed from the east side of Arughat to the west and paused to look up the Buri Gandaki, which would be my companion for the next week.

Manaslu 01 06 Buri Gandaki From Arughat

Manaslu 01 07 Arughat Soldiers I was greeted at Arughat by six army soldiers in battle fatigues carrying machine guns, a telltale sign of the Maoist problems in Nepal in 2003.

Manaslu 01 07 Arughat Soldiers

Manaslu 01 08 Arughat School Children We waited over an hour for the porters at Arughat. I passed the time by watching the blue-uniformed school children walk past. I'd just stare at them, and then just as they passed I'd break into a smile, and so would they.

Manaslu 01 08 Arughat School Children

Manaslu 02 01 Luxuriant Fields and Crops We left in the early morning mist at 6:20 to try and limit the amount of hiking in the middle of the day. I've never walked in the low country of Nepal before. And, except for the heat, it's stunningly beautiful. It's luxuriantly green with rich and abundant vegetable fields. They harvest three crops a year: rice in the summer, barley in the fall, and corn in the winter. There's chickens, goats, and cows aplenty. The wild flowers grow everywhere, hanging from trees and resting low to the ground.

Manaslu 02 01 Luxuriant Fields and Crops

Manaslu 02 02 Fisherman I stopped and watched this local fisherman throw his net laden with some kind of shell, into the Buri Gandaki.

Manaslu 02 02 Fisherman

Manaslu 02 03 Arkhet Khola and Shringi Himal Crossing the Arkhet Khola was an adrenalin experience. Gyan hopped across the surging river to a rock partially submerged. I just looked at him. He tried putting more rocks, but it didn't help. I passed him my knapsack and camera pouch, and got set to jump to Gyan's outstretched hand. Then a porter, who had walked across the river, came to my rescue. He waded into the middle of the river and took my hand, and then I jumped. I thanked the man with a handshake and a bow. People's compassion continues to surprise me. After leaving Arkhet, I had a good view of Shringi Himal (7187m) up the valley.

Manaslu 02 03 Arkhet Khola and Shringi Himal

Manaslu 02 04 Low Land Houses In the lower hills of Nepal the houses are all built in more variety than in the high country, but they still follow the same principles. They are two stories high with a sloping hay or wooden roof, the walls are white washed and partly painted orange. The orange color is made of cow dung and red clay and applied regularly. Often large banana trees or bamboo surround the house, giving welcome shade on hot days. A small stable for cows or goats can be found a few metres away from the living quarters.

Manaslu 02 04 Low Land Houses

Manaslu 02 05 Crossing Bridge The metal bridges are well built and safe.

Manaslu 02 05 Crossing Bridge

Manaslu 02 06 Waterfall There are many waterfalls along the sides of the Buri Gandaki between Arughat to Labubesi. Here is the most beautiful waterfall as we neared Labubesi.

Manaslu 02 06 Waterfall

Manaslu 02 07 Dangerous Trail The trail climbs onto a ridge above huge rapids on the Buri Gandaki. Much of the trail is blasted out of vertical rock walls - steady on your feet and don't look down while you’re climbing the stone steps cut out of the mountainside. We arrived at the Gurung village of Labubesi (880m) at 15:00. A Maoist arrived at 17:30! She was a young, very mannerly, and soft-spoken young woman. She said she was collecting a 100 rupee per day tax for the Maoist Government. I dutifully paid her 1600 rupees and she gave me a receipt. She also asked for a donation. I refused, and she left.

Manaslu 02 07 Dangerous Trail

Manaslu 03 01 Shringi Himal From Past Khanibesi I left Labubesi by myself at 6:40. An hour later just after Khanibesi, the peaks of the Shringi Himal (7187m) shone brightly in the morning sun.

Manaslu 03 01 Shringi Himal From Past Khanibesi

Manaslu 03 02 Waterfalls I walked along the narrow trail making ups and downs and arrived at Khorlabesi (970m) at 10:00. A young bearded Maoist, dressed in a t-shirt and army fatigues, talked to me. I showed him my 'tax form', and he was satisfied. A second Maoist young man obtained tax from another traveler. Just after arriving on the eastern side of the Buri Gandaki, there was a two-streamed waterfall dropping from the heavens.

Manaslu 03 02 Waterfalls

Manaslu 04 01 Jagat I spoke to a local shop owner in Jagat who told me you don't need a government permit to enter the Manaslu Conservation Area anymore. The government officials have fled the area, leaving it to the Maoists. The town of Jagat (1415m), with the local school on the far right, is fixed with paved stone plates throughout.

Manaslu 04 01 Jagat

Manaslu 04 02 Shringi Himal From Past Jagat I'm always pleased to discover a beautiful mountain on my trips. Shringi Himal (7187m) was my discovery on this trip. The mountain stands just huge above the valley, its summit glistening in the mid-day sun.

Manaslu 04 02 Shringi Himal From Past Jagat

Manaslu 04 03 Shringi Himal Close Up From Past Jagat Here’s a close up of the beautiful mountain Shringi Himal (7187m), its summit glistening in the mid-day sun.

Manaslu 04 03 Shringi Himal Close Up From Past Jagat

Manaslu 05 01 Cooking Breakfast We camped in a farmer’s field in Ekle Bhatti (1600m) and were up before sunrise the next morning with Schandra cooking breakfast.

Manaslu 05 01 Cooking Breakfast

Manaslu 05 02 Valley Narrows After Ekle Bhatti Just after leaving Ekle Bhatti, the valley narrows, with the river carving a steep gorge below, while a waterfall is just visible on the right.

Manaslu 05 02 Valley Narrows After Ekle Bhatti

Manaslu 05 03 Crossing Buri Gandaki On A Leaning Bridge On the way to Deng, I crossed the Buri Gandaki three times, the last on this slightly leaning bridge.

Manaslu 05 03 Crossing Buri Gandaki On A Leaning Bridge

Manaslu 05 04 Chorten, Buckwheat, Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal From Deng I arrived at the tiny picturesque village of Deng (1800m) at 9:15. I strolled down off the path to see a chorten of stones with red buckwheat in the foreground and Lapuchun (5960 m) and Dwijen Himal (5521m) ion the distance.

Manaslu 05 04 Chorten, Buckwheat, Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal From Deng

Manaslu 05 05 Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal Close Up From Deng From Deng (1800m), here is a close up of the impressive Lapuchun (5960 m) and Dwijen Himal (5521m) to the north on the Tibetan border. The Buri Gandaki valley turns from north-south to east-west and the route now crosses the main Himalayan range.

Manaslu 05 05 Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal Close Up From Deng

Manaslu 05 06 Buri Gandaki Bridge To Rana With Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal A short distance beyond Deng the trail crosses the Buri Gandaki onto what is now the north bank, and climbs to Rana (1980m). The red vegetation on the far bank is buckwheat. In the distance to the north on the Tibetan border are Lapuchun (5960m) and Dwijen Himal (5521m).

Manaslu 05 06 Buri Gandaki Bridge To Rana With Lapuchun and Dwijen Himal

Manaslu 05 07 Ghap Kani I stopped and admired the Ghap (2110m) kani, with intricate, well-preserved paintings on the inside. A stone kani is a tall chorten in the form of an arch, the internal walls and ceiling of which are often decorated with Buddhist paintings.

Manaslu 05 07 Ghap Kani

Manaslu 05 08 Ghap Kani Ceiling Painting The Ghap (2110m) kani has intricate, well-preserved paintings on the ceiling with Avalokiteshvara in the centre.

Manaslu 05 08 Ghap Kani Ceiling Painting

Manaslu 05 09 Ghap Mani Carving Green Tara The mani wall in Ghap has particularly elegant carvings said to have been made by a family of stone carvers from Bhi, high on the hillside above. Here is Green Tara holding blue lotuses in her hands and with her right leg outstretched ready to spring into action.

Manaslu 05 09 Ghap Mani Carving Green Tara

Manaslu 05 10 Ghap Mani Carving Buddha The mani wall in Ghap has particularly elegant carvings, one of which is Buddha and his two disciples.

Manaslu 05 10 Ghap Mani Carving Buddha

Manaslu 05 11 Ghap Mani Carving Avalokiteshvara with 4 Arms The mani wall in Ghap has particularly elegant carvings, one of which is the four-armed Avalokiteshvara.

Manaslu 05 11 Ghap Mani Carving Avalokiteshvara with 4 Arms

Manaslu 05 12 Ghap Mani Carving Avalokiteshvara with 8 Arms and 11 Heads The mani wall in Ghap has particularly elegant carvings, one of which is the Avalokiteshvara with eight arms and eleven heads. His two central hands holds the jewel of enlightenment.

Manaslu 05 12 Ghap Mani Carving Avalokiteshvara with 8 Arms and 11 Heads

Manaslu 06 01 Lihi Stone Houses The stone houses of Lihi (2900m) are grouped together like apartments into units of five or six that share a common roof and courtyard. Most roofs are made of heavy wood shingles.

Manaslu 06 01 Lihi Stone Houses

Manaslu 06 02 Lihi Lunch In Local House Yard We stopped for lunch in the back of a local house, with wood stacked high, clothes drying, barley let out to dry, and children looking on.

Manaslu 06 02 Lihi Lunch In Local House Yard

Manaslu 06 03 Simnang Himal From Lihi From Lihi I could see Simnang Himal (6251m), a steep snow-covered mountain with a jagged summit. It reminded me of the Matterhorn north face.

Manaslu 06 03 Simnang Himal From Lihi

Manaslu 06 04 View Towards Sho With Naike Peak From Lihi From Lihi the bulky Naike Peak (5515m) shone in the morning sun, above the valley leading uphill to Sho.

Manaslu 06 04 View Towards Sho With Naike Peak From Lihi

Manaslu 06 05 Ganesh I and Ganesh II From Sho I looked back to the east from Sho (2960m), and saw Ganesh I and II towering above the valley. The name for the range comes from the Hindu deity Ganesha, usually depicted in the form of an elephant. In fact, the south face of Pabil (Ganesh IV) slightly resembles an elephant, with a ridge that is reminiscent of an elephant's trunk. Ganesh I (7422m, also called Yangra) was first climbed via the Southeast Face and Ridge on October 24, 1955 by Raymond Lambert, Eric Gauchat, and famed female climber Claude Kogan. Sadly, Gauchat fell to his death on the descent. Two teams were attempting Ganesh II NW (7118m) at the same time in 1981. The German team was on the North Ridge, while a Japanese team was on the Northeast Spur. The two groups combined at 6300m and finished on the North Face. Reaching the summit on October 16, 1981 were Hermann Warth, Ang Chappal Sherpa, Nga Temba Sherpa, Nima Tenzing Sherpa, Nabuhide Kuwahara, Joji Nakamura, Nobuhiro Hase, Tendi Sherpa, and Kirke Sherpa.

Manaslu 06 05 Ganesh I and Ganesh II From Sho

Manaslu 06 06 Lho The views now start to open up, but clouds obscured Manaslu and Manaslu North (7157m). I looked back at Lho (3180m), with the enormous mani wall on the left, and fields of barley in front. Note the electricity poles on the far right.

Manaslu 06 06 Lho

Manaslu 06 07 Syala Kani The kani, with beautiful paintings inside, welcomed me to Syala (3520m) after the long slog uphill.

Manaslu 06 07 Syala Kani

Manaslu 06 08 Syala Kani Painting The paintings on Syala’s kani wall include a 4-armed Avalokiteshvara on the left, then Padmasambhava, a six-armed Mahakala, and red Hayagriva on the right.

Manaslu 06 08 Syala Kani Painting

Manaslu 06 09 Lapuchun From Syala As the sun set, the clouds obscuring Lapuchun (5960m) cleared to reveal a beautifully white summit with huge shoulders left and right.

Manaslu 06 09 Lapuchun From Syala

Manaslu 06 10 Syala Mother and Daughter In Lodge The campsite was already occupied by a Spanish group, so we stayed at the Maili Manaslu Hotel, Shyala, Gorkha. The lodge is being run by a mother and her daughter. The girl laughs liberally while mom sits silent, but smiling. I ate my dinner of rice and vegetable curry (hey, this isn't daal baht, is it), I watched as the girl cut mini-potatoes and fried them in a cast iron type pan on a small wood stove. I told her that potatoes were my favourite. She offered me a bowl, which I gratefully accepted. They were fantastic, though a bit spicy.

Manaslu 06 10 Syala Mother and Daughter In Lodge

Manaslu 06 11 Syala Lodge Shop The hotel also doubles as a general store. On the left shelves are household cups and bowls, beer, and paint. In the middle shelves are clothes detergent, cookies, batteries, more beer, butter, Chinese wine, and another can of paint. On the right hand shelves are nail polish, two rows of whisky, noodles, butter, Chinese dish powder, and Goldstar sneakers. Family photos hung proudly near the top.

Manaslu 06 11 Syala Lodge Shop